East Usambara Mountains are best seen from Amani Nature reserve. Compared to West Usambaras and Ulugurus, these mountains are much more pristine and less populated with much more good forest left. To get to Amani one has to start from the village Muheza located on the main road between Dar es Salaam and Tanga. There is at least one dala-dala (overcrowded mini-bus) from Amani to Muheza (about 20 km) on morning and back to Amani from Muheza in mid-day. I hitchhiked from Muheza to Amani and it was faster then to wait for dala-dala.
In contrast to West Usambaras and Ulugurus, this region has well established tourist infrastructure, which was indeed very nice to find. By this I mean a simple guest-house in Zigi (at the very entrance to the Amani Nature reserve at about 400 m) and another one 9 km further at the Reserve's headquarter (900 m). Accommodation is $5 per day with $5 more for three good meals daily. Forest was cleared for tea plantations, however from about 1950 the area was preserved and really good forest still left almost intact.
Personally, I consider Amani Nature Reserve in east Usamabara Mountains as the most pleasant place to visit, compared to West Usambaras and Ulugurus. It is really good place to see nature and not be restricted with fees and rules of National Parks.
There are a few web-sites about Amani N.R. and they will be easily found searching the web.
TANZANIA: East Usambara Mts., Amani Nature Reserve. There are numerous tea plantations within the Nature Reserve.
